Used 1983 Jeep CJ Scrambler - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle... for sale in Bryan, TX

Lifted 1983 Jeep CJ8 Scrambler with tons of modifications, not a show car, but stands out in any crowd and gets a lot of attention wherever it goes. I bought this Jeep in 2013 with the understanding that it needed some work, only to realize that there was quite a bit more to do than was disclosed. I've spent the last 7 years replacing/improving things. There's a lot of information here, but I don't want anyone to wind up with something they're not prepared for. It’s a big, bouncy, loud, 27 year old vehicle. It's like driving a WWII fighter plane down the road, and more fun than you can imagine, the 4wd works and with the gearing it will go up/over/through anything you put in front of (or behind) it. It’s unlike anything else you see on the road, and is built for a good time off-road. All the gauges and lights function and I have a clean Texas title in my name, vehicle is registered/insured and passed Texas State inspection as of 7/18/2020. It runs at around 4000+ RPM at 65mph, so you won't making great time in it if you're taking it very far without trailering it. At the risk of over stating it, the rust isn't going to get any better unless you address it, but you’ll be hard pressed to find a more fun, over-built Jeep for the price. Below is a list of everything that’s been done that I can think of. I may have forgotten some stuff though, so please ask any questions you have and I’ll try to answer and provide pictures if I can.

Upgrades that were done before I got it:
Sunpro Mini tachometer
YJ Windshield frame installed
The metal in the YJ frame is thicker, and swapping it in helps solve an issue with the windshield wiper arms bending and failing.
Twin-stick kit for Dana 300 Transfer case
Allows High and Low ranges to be applied to one set of axles at a time, which can help out when four-wheeling in tight spaces. Both High and Low work great and shift smoothly.
Locking Tuffy Center consul and locking Tuffy glovebox, I have keys for both
Oversized Chevy Blazer brake booster/reservoir
Rear quarter panels and rockers covered with ⅛” diamond plate
Heavy duty front and rear bumpers with welded on D-rings
Tons of other stuff that I had to rip out or redo because they were done… poorly.
Upgrades that were done by me over the last 7yrs:
(I have receipts for all this stuff, I've never totaled them up, but I'm pretty sure if I did my wife would leave me, also pretty sure my picture is up at NAPA HQ somewhere)

-Engine-
('78 AMC 258 I6)
Completely rebuilt over Spring of 2020, XXX miles
Torn completely apart, all components hot tanked and scanned at Vilas Motor Works Bryan, TX
Vilas Motor Works rebuilt the head, ground the crank, and returned everything to me for the rest of the rebuild.

New camshaft

New piston cups, rings, bearings

All new gaskets, timing gears/chain, lifters, rods, rockers

New motor mounts

New spark plugs/wires/rotor/cap

Weber 38/38 Carburetor
Freshly rebuilt and tuned with help from The Bug Clinic Bryan, TX

MSD Blaster Ignition Coil

• Distributer cap/wires upgraded to Ford style following the "Team Rush" upgrade method (google it) which allows for bigger plug gapping and better sparking resulting in better power/more efficient fuel burn.

Ignition Control Module

New Starter

New Starter Solenoid

New Heater Core

New 4 row aluminum radiator with stainless steel overflow tank.

All new Coolant lines

Coolant system filled with Evan’s Waterless Coolant
Fluid doesn’t build pressure, cools more efficiently, and never needs to be changed.

Twin Electric fans with shroud that kick on automatically or can be switched on manually

Mechanical Fuel Pump

Electric pump wired to switch on dash

-Transmission and Transfer Case-
(T-176 4-speed w/ Dana 300 twin-stick)

Rebuilt Transmission
• New 1st&2nd synchro
• New reverse slider gear
• New bearings
• New Springs/Blocking rings/Sync Plates
• New seals/gaskets/fluid

Resealed T-case
• New Gaskets/seals/fluid

-Axles and Driveshafts-
Dana 44 front axle from an early 80's Jeep Wagoneer

Ford 9" rear-end with 31 spline axles from a late 80's f-150
Axles have super low 5:13 gears

All wheels have 11.75” disk brakes

Rear brake calipers are brand new 87 Cadillac Eldorado style with parking brake from Ruff Stuff Specialties

Front Axle has SuperWinch Locking Hubs

Rear Driveshaft replaced with Tom Woods "Top of the Line" Double Cardan Custom Drive Shaft with "Gold Seal" U-Joints

-Frame & Suspension-

When I first bought the jeep I found that the frame had rusted through in spots, so I ground out all of the weak/cracked places and welded on patches made from two pieces of welded together 3”x3”x ⅜" or ¼" angle iron. Essentially the patches look like long taco shells that are at least ⅜" thick on each side, and ¾" thick on the bottom that go up around the frame and are welded in-place around their entire perimeter. The end effect is much stronger than the original frame and will easily outlast anything thrown against it. While I was grinding and welding under there, I took the opportunity to out-board the rear shocks and paint the frame with POR15 rust inhibitor.

Installed Rocky Road Outfitters:
SOA kit/Wrangler Spring conversion/HD Shackle Hangers

All New Rocky Road shocks

Out-boarded rear shocks

-Body and Interior-
Installed fiberglass hardtop from rallytops.com
Can be removed along with doors if you want an open-air ride

Installed stainless steel door latch pins/mounts

Body rotted through just below the drivers side upper door hinge, which caused the door to sag. I cut out the rust and made an over-sized stainless steel plate that bolts on and secures the hinge, and then painted everything black. Not the prettiest mod, but it keeps the door from sagging and allows it to close without having to slam it.

Replaced ignition and door key cylinders

Passenger-side window regulator replaced

Installed new windshield gaskets and glass

The dash pad cracked, so I bent a stainless steel plate to cover the damaged area

Pulled the diamond plate off the rear quarter panels and ground out/painted the rust that had formed underneath. Bolted back on the panels and then welded them to the body.

New body mounts installed with all stainless steel hardware
Drivers side mid-body mount is uninstalled due to body rust.

At some time in the past, a previous owner drilled holes in the hood for a hood ornament, removed said hood ornament, and bondo’ed the hood. I noticed the holes from the underside and, like an idiot, pushed on one with a screwdriver. So as not to leave a hole in the hood I mounted a chromed brass aircraft air-speed sensor on as a new hood ornament.

-Steering-
Installed "the 500" wood wrapped chrome steering wheel

Installed high-steer steering linkage with ⅞" Heim joint ends

Built a 1" drag link with ⅝" Heim joint ends from a solid steel bar

Installed stock style "Straight" pitman arm
Maximizes the turning ability of the Jeep, even with the over-sized tires

Replaced upper and lower bearings on steering shaft

-Electrical-
Rewired the entire vehicle front to back with a KwikWire Hot Rod wiring harness
Powers everything in the Jeep with several circuits left over for additional accessories.

Built and installed a dome light

Upgraded the heater blower motor to an '87 Chevy Blazer blower

Much more powerful motor that pushes a lot more air

Dropped in an Optima Yellowtop battery

Installed 12v mini amp with AUX cable so you can play music from your phone. One speaker in front and two in the rear. The sound isn’t great, but it gets loud enough to drown out annoying passengers.

-Exhaust & Fuel-

Team Rush upgrade and Nutter Bypass done to improve engine performance. While the engine runs a lot happier, it will not pass California emission test. Most states don’t require emissions for cars this age, but you should know your state's laws on the subject, this link is a good resource for that info: LiftLaws

New catalytic converter installed before muffler

Installed New Fuel Pumps
Mechanical and Electric

New Fuel Filters
One immediately after fuel tank, one just before carb

Bent and Installed new steel fuel delivery and return lines

Installed all new fuel fill/vent/delivery hoses

Stock 20 Gal plastic fuel tank was removed/cleaned/reinstalled with new fuel sender

Installed new stock sized exhaust manifold/down pipe/muffler

Tail pipe professionally bent and installed

-Brakes & Clutch-

Ruff Stuff rear calipers with parking brake installed

Rocky Road Outfitters extended rubber brake lines in front

Novak Adapters hydraulic clutch conversion kit

Jeep Wrangler style hydraulic clutch master cylinder

Flywheel has been resurfaced and new ring gear installed

New clutch & throw-out bearing

-Wheels & Tires-
• American Racing "Baja" 16"X10" aluminum wheels
• 35X12.5R16 Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar reinforced sidewalls professionally mounted and balanced

Things that still need Attention:

Blinker doesn’t always turn off when you turn right.

I bought and originally owned this Jeep in NY State, and the road salt there started making a meal out of the metal. Since moving to Texas, I’ve done a fair amount of patching, but the body has got its share of rust through.
Both front floor pans were “patched” by a previous owner with fiberglass. The drivers side has a couple good sized holes, the passenger side is better, but still not great.

The rear wheel-wells are rotted out where they meet the fender flares.

The windshield frame is starting to rot where it seals against the body.

Weather striping around doors/door windows is shot and the Jeep gets wet inside when it rains.

The Hood has a nice dent in it.

Paint is mis-matched flat black, I’ve done touchups to try to prevent further rust; but again, it’s no show Jeep

Fuel tank still burps gas if filled all the way full

Engine Temp gauge reads high, I have a gauge on the radiator that confirms engine is running the correct temperature. Even after driving around at 50mph in 100 degree heat, engine always shows around 180-190.

Thanks for looking